RIO DAY-BY-DAY

Whoever decides to spend some time in Rio wanting to experience something else then the traditional touristy points and tours, needs to find out more about the best places and the best days to take pleasure in.

The best way to do that, of course, is meeting some cariocas. A good company can tell you exactly which are the current hot places, presenting you with a new perspective of the city. From there you have only to relax and enjoy. But as it is not always that easy to find that kind of information, here are some basic tips of how to fell at home, a carioca in Rio, the most beautiful city in the world.

EVERY DAY

The Beach

We all know the glamour of 'Copacabana' beach, one of the postcards of Rio de Janeiro. Tip: The best way to know this beach is by walking in its Portuguese stone pavement. In your way you will find 'Futevolei' nets, one of the fashionable sports that uses the volley principles with a football ball and the feet. You should also try the coconut water at any beach kiosk for U$1.00 and, of course, the sun.

The beaches of Rio are divided at every 600m by numbered rescue posts located on its pavement and serving as a reference meeting point for cariocas. But if you really want to swim and see some of the hottest swimming outfits on earth, the right place to go is 'Praia de Ipanema' where the most beautiful people in Rio de Janeiro gather. This place was, for example, the inspiration for the Bossa Nova song "Girl from Ipanema".

The tip is to go down to the sand in between the posts 10 and 9. To refresh from the heat try the "Sucolé do Claudinho", a delicious tropical fruit ice cream that comes in a plastic wrap costing approximately U$1.00.

Late Afternoon

Late afternoon, after the beach, a compulsory stop are the bars spread over the district of 'Leblon', noble part of Rio. The most famous 'botequins' are Clipper and Bracarense, the latter being elected by its drinking customers the best 'chopp' in Rio de Janeiro.

In fact, who is unaware of that would never notice this bar. The place is small and the tables are all over the pavement. But the snacks prepared by the cooker Alaíde Carneiro de Lima, a traditional 'mineira', are splendid. The cassava, shrimp and catupiry chesse cake or 'bolinho de camarão e aipim' (R$ 1,40) is mouth watering.

The black bean 'caldinho' too (R$ 2,20). The beer, from traditional Brahma, is one of the best of the city. Rua José Linhares, 85, Leblon

Night Tour

Monday: The night is long at COZUMEL, a three-floor bar and disco close the lagoon 'Rodrigo de Freitas' at the corner of 'J.J. Seabra' street. The reason is obvious: the menu inspired in the Texan and Mexican cuisine is full of spicy options and tequila based drinks. If you come before midnight you pay only U$15.00 for free food and drinks all night. After midnight, you pay normally for your food and drinks.

The final touch is the constant flirting that goes on around here - especially at the first floor where is located the small dancing area. To get some courage and enthusiasm try the lemon, strawberry,peach, mango and pineapple margaritas.

Tuesday: Black music night at AfroRio, club that is inside the 'teatro da Lagoa', next to 'MeliMelo', another famous spot. At AfroRio expect to find live percussion with electronic beats under a strong light-set. The DJs go through all the variations of black music, from the black movement of Rio during the 70's to soul, hip hop and drum'n' bass. Expect to see a very beautiful crowd in there. Teatro da Lagoa, Avenida Borges de Medeiros, 1426

Wednesday: The 'Nuth' is very fun place, where the music, cozy decoration and indirect illumination create a modern lounge ambiance. Opened a year ago at 'Barra da Tijuca', it is a chilled place where people can meet to talk, have dinner, a drink, and play the pool or simply to dance. 'Nuth' is a house with a tree's trunk structure covered by a straw type material called 'sapê'. In its front garden there are big wooden tables and chairs coupled with a sweet water lake with 'carpas' and Japanese fishes. Inside it, there is a large space where tables don't get in the way of customers that wish to dance. On the second floor there is a restaurant and the official pool table. Wednesday is the night restricted to guests and VIP's; the parties are organized by its promoters but it is also the day that the crowd is most excellent, so come early, around 8pm, and with a little luck you will be able to get in.

Thursday: If you wish to know more about samba, the real roots samba, this is the place to come. It is a cozy and calm ambient to dance, eat and sing. In the middle of 'Lapa', traditional district of the carioca nightlife, between art-nouveau furniture and glass cabinets from the beginning of the century, people gather to enjoy the 'roda de samba' inside this antique shop. The furniture, for sale, it's used by the customers. There are also some snacks such as the cheese and meat platter from U$ 6,00 and little cured meat and cassava cakes or 'bolinhos de carne-seca com aipim' from U$ 3,00 the portion. A can of beer here costs U$1.00. The 'samba' runs untamed from wednesday to saturday. There is an artistic charge of R$2.50 and minimum consumption charge of U$2.50.Rua do Lavradio, 100, Centro. From 18h/3h (Wednesday to friday) and 21h/3h (saturday) Phone: 2852-5904

Friday: The happy hour its is in Cobal do Leblon, an open ambient with outdoor tables in a parking space that sprawls as a big 'boteco'. In there, you will be able to find cheap and good bars. Friday is the busiest day for its beautiful people. To find a table after 9pm is a hard task, you have to be patient. There is a timid and discrete flirting, nothing obvious. They also have delicious pizzas between U$8.00 and U$15.00 and the beer is ice cold. Cobal do Leblon, Rua Gilberto Cardoso, s/nº, leblon

Saturday: Saturday is the best day to go to 'Meli Melo' club at 'Lagoa'. Here is what people say of the place: "There is everything inside, so why are you still outside?" There are 3 different areas with music, Japanese food, a lot of drinks and fun. It is worth a look. The musical taste of this place it's also very eclectic, mixing pop and techno. Each DJ set is different, including performances, outrageous clothes and dance at the DJ booth.

Still on saturdays, for whoever wants to find out and enjoy more of the samba, you cannot miss the 'Velha Guarda da mangueira'!!!

The Velha Guarda da Mangueira or 'Old School of Mangueira' has been an entertaining delight ever since its creation in 1956. The founders of the group, Carlos Cachaça, the great Cartola, and Aloisio Dias are legends of the pure samba tradition, and their foundation has been representing one of the most time-honored samba schools in Rio de Janeiro (and therefore Brazil).

Composed of 12 'Mangueira' born musicians, all of them carry their neighborhood deep in their hearts. The group has 4 women (traditionally named "As Pastoras") to lead solo and alternate chorus vocals. On the instrument section: 'pandeiro', 'reco-reco', two 'tamborins', 'cuíca', 'ganza' and 'surdo'. In addition to mastering their instruments, all members sing along. Two special guests also join the party, Valdir Silva as the prodigious 'cavaquinho' player, and Josimar Monteiro, state of the art musical director, who also plays the 7-string guitar.

Even though some songs are true innovations, the musical arrays always stand in the pure Mangueira tradition; thus safekeeping the original sounds and authentic resonant power of genuine roots samba. That is the reason why every 'Velha Guarda da Mangueira' show is a unique trip to the Brazilian neighborhoods jam sessions, a heart-warming celebration where the audience ends up singing along. 'Velha Guarda da Mangueira' also toured Europe on summer 2000, with heartfelt shows at Amsterdam Viva Brasil Festival, Hannover's Expo 2000, Paris' Bataclan, London's Barbican Center, Berlin's Heimatklange and Wiesen Festival (where the band joined Company Segundo for an historical meeting of Brazil and Cuba) to name but a few. Every saturday at 'Barracão Cultural da Mangueira' at Praça 11, behind the building 'Balança mas não cai'.

Sunday

After going out all week and without much money left, what about an energizing bowl of 'açai'? 'Açai' is a fruit typical of the Amazon region, that when crushed with an extract of 'guaraná' becomes a refreshing and natural energetic drink. Try it in Bibi Sucos at Av. Ataúlfo de Paiva, district of 'Leblon'; it will cost around U$3.00. After the beach and a

sunny day you will certainly feel ready for another week.

In Ipanema, the 'Casa da Feijoada' (Rua Prudente de Morais, 10), the 'Barril 1800' (Avenida Vieira Souto,

110) and the 'Caffé Felice' (Rua Gomes Carneiro, 30) are also some good options for dining and drinks. Go

to the bar 'Garota de Ipanema' (Rua Vinícius de Morais, 49), where Tom Jobim and Vinícius de Moraes

wrote the famous song "The girl from Ipanema", and try its famous 'quibes' (meat balls).