Getting There

Colombia's location at the northern edge of South America means it has good and relatively cheap air links with both Europe and North America. Most visitors fly to Colombia's major international airport in Bogotá; the other international airports include Cartagena and San Andrés. The airport tax on international flights is US$23, US$44 if you have a business visa.

The country has road connections with Venezuela and Ecuador only. Travelers planning to use the dangerous Arauca-El Amparo de Apure border crossing or the Puerto Carreño-Puerto Páez crossing into Venezuela should consult their embassy to assess the security situation. Colombian guerilla attacks on Venezuelan army posts resulted in a confrontational build up of troops on both sides of the border in March 1995.

The truly intrepid can enter Colombia from Panama via the Darién Gap - the dense, dangerous and environmentally important jungle which interrupts the Pan-American highway. The trip takes a couple of weeks, requires guides, advance planning, a high degree of self-reliance and some good fortune. Guerrillas are active in the area and kidnappings are not uncommon so this trip is not to be undertaken lightly.

Ports on both Pacific and Caribbean coasts make it possible to arrive or leave by boat. Sea traffic is busier on the Caribbean side: boats are frequently coming and going between the USA, Mexico, Central America, the Caribbean islands and Venezuela. Colombian ports on the Caribbean include Baranquilla, Cartagena, Santa Marta and Turbo; its major Pacific port is Buenaventura.

Getting Around

Colombia was the first country in South America to have an airline: SCADTA was founded in 1919 and later became Avianca. It now has a well-developed airline system and one of the densest networks of domestic flights in Latin America. The country's policy of cielos abiertos (open skies), begun in 1991, has meant the introduction of a number of new carriers and an enormous variety of aircraft, from jumbo jets to anything that can manage to take off. Airfares are relatively high (Avianca and SAM are the most expensive carriers) but some of the newly established airlines offer promotional fares that can be ridiculously cheap. Remember to reconfirm your reservations at least 72 hours in advance and be prepared for rescheduled or postponed flights. There is a US$3.50 airport tax on domestic flights.

Buses provide the main means of getting around the country and are cheap, efficient and extensive. Unfortunately the roads, except for main routes, often beggar description. Getting around the cities by bus can be slow and they are usually crowded, but taxis are excellent value and can be chartered for long distances.

Other forms of transport include chivas (an old-style, wooden bus used primarily on outback roads) and collectivos (a cross between a bus and taxi, and used on fixed routes). There is no train service within the country and independent travel (car or motorcycle) is not recommended as it is both expensive and dangerous. Water transport, especially along the Pacific coast where no roads exist, is irregular and primitive.