THE SOUTH AEGEAN

A visit to Efes (Ephesus), once the commercial center of the ancient world, is a highlight of any visit to Turkey. The city, whose wealth and patronage supported its splendid architectural program, was dedicated to the goddess Artemis. Her enormous temple, once considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and rebuilt several times, in its latest form dates from the third century B.C. The ruins also include a theater, gymnasium, agora and baths, as well as the Library of Celsus.

Temple of Hadrian, Ephesus, Izmir

The nearby town of Seljuk is dominated by a Byzantine citadel which stands close to the 6th-century basilica of St. John, supposedly built on the site of the apostle's tomb. The 14th-century Isa Bey Mosque, next to the basilica is accessed through its typical Seljuk portal. The Archaeological Museum houses an impressive collection of statues and other finds recovered during the excavations at Ephesus. The nearby Turkish Bath Museum, in a 16th century building, shows Turkish life at the hamam (bath). The Ephesus International Festival of Culture and Tourism is held annually in May.

Tradition has it that, after the death of Christ, John brought the Virgin Mary to Ephesus where she is said to have spent her last days in a small house (Meryemana Evi) built for her on Bulbuldagi (Mt. Koressos). Now a place of pilgrimage for Roman Catholics and a popular attraction for everyone, the house has received the official sanction of the Vatican, and a commemoration ceremony is held every year on August 15th. Near Seljuk is a TCDD Open-air Steam Locomotives Museum displaying historic train cars in Camlik. Sirince is 9 km east of Seljuk, known for its traditional 19th-century homes, some of which have been converted into guest houses. Wine is produced in this small hillside Turkish village, which itself resembles an open-air museum. Eighteen km from Seljuk are wine houses, for tasting the wines.

St. John's Church, Selcuk, Izmir

AYDIN

The province's capital, also called Aydin, enjoys a widespread reputation for its fine figs. Known as Tralleis in ancient times, it was at the center of a celebrated school of sculpture. Today's remains date from the second century A.D. After 1186 the town came under Seljuk rule. The local museum displays artifacts from the different periods of its history.

Kusadasi

Back along the coast, Kusadasior Bird island is a lovely port built along the shores of a glittering bay. The terraced town overlooks the most beautiful inlet of the Aegean, seemingly created purely for the delight of the holiday-maker. Be sure to visit the popular Kus shopping center in the Kaleici quarter, where there is also all nightly entertainment. A large, modern marina facilitates life for visiting yachters. The Tusan-Kustur Beach, north of Kusadasi is one of the cleanest beaches. twenty-three km south of Kusdasi is the charming resort town of Guzelcamli. West of Guzelcamli and 30 km from Kusadasi, is the Dilek Peninsula National Park, a must for those with the time. Here, amidst incredibly beautiful surroundings, are some of the most wonderful vistas and some of the rarest wild animals in Turkey, including the Anatolian cheetah and some of the last wild horses. The park is a wildlife preserve, a haven for many species of animals and birds.

The exquisite Menderes River valley, known in the West as the Meander, has been the cradle of many civilizations. Bordered by pine, olive and oleander trees, the magnificent Lake Camici (Bafa) is a lovely place for a stop. Tourists can choose between guest-houses or campsites. To the east of the lake rise the five peaks of the Besparmak Mountains (Latmos). The Iconoclastic priests who came here from Constantinople to live, built monasteries, churches, and chapels around the base of the mountains and on the lake's islands. The ruins of the ancient city of Heraklia lie close to the lake, while the remains of Alinda are found on the eastern slopes of the Besparmak Mountains. The valley has witnessed the rise and fall of several great cities, notably Priene, Miletus, Didyma, Aphrodisias, and Hierapolis. This peaceful national reserve is an excellent place for bird-watchers, hikers, nature-lovers and photographers.

Gullubahce (Priene) was one of the most active ports of the Ionian Federation. The grid-like system of streets introduced in the fourth century B.C. by Hippodamos of Miletus is a superb and early example of town planning.

Milet (Miletus), like Priene, was a great Ionian port as well as the birthplace of several philosophers and sages. The theater itself justifies a visit. Also be sure to see the well-preserved ruins of the Faustina baths and the Archaeological Museum.

Kusadasi

Although Didim (Didyma) can only boast of a single monument, it is a marvelous site. The Temple of Apollo was one of antiquity's most sacred places. Many times looted and burned, the colossal sanctuary still impresses with its elegant beauty, surrounded by a double colonnade portico. Not far from the archeological site, the beautiful beach of Altinkum tempts visitors with its many guest houses. Akbuk is another holiday resort in the region with nice beach hotels.

Although the history of Geyre (Aphrodisias) stretches far back in time, the city, which was dedicated to Aphrodite, goddess of love and fertility, only rose to prominence in the first century B.C. Some of the richest treasures of ancient times were uncovered in the excavation of this city. The public buildings are handsomely adorned with marble that was carved with astonishing skill, producing remarkable temples, monuments, baths, a theater and a magnificent stadium. As the reputation of the city's craftsmen for the exquisite finesse spread through the civilized world, Aphrodisias became the center of the greatest sculpting school of antiquity. Many of its marvelous works of art are now housed in the local museum. The theater and bouleuterion are among the city's best-preserved ruins.

About 35 kilometers east of Aydin lies Sultanhisar, host to an Art and Culture Festival every spring. Nearby, in quiet groves of olive trees, are the ruins of ancient Nysa, famous in the second century A.D. as an educational center. You can choose among nearby Camlik, Incilipinar or Gokpinar Parks for a rest, a picnic, or simply a walk through the forest in the shade of pine trees. Fresh water springs and thermal baths attract many visitors.

Pamukkale

DENIZLI

Nestled in the high mountains near the Buyuk Menderes (Meander) River is Denizli. Surrounded by the natural beauty of a verdant valley, the area is also rich in culture and history. The Luvians were the first inhabitants, followed centuries later by the Hittites. Throughout time the fertile plain nourished other civilizations - The Phrygians, Lydians, Persians, Macedonians, Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks, and the Ottomans. Modern Denizli is a city of wide streets with parks and hotels. The Ataturk Ethnography Museum in the city center features folk art and ethnic artifacts. While shopping in the Kaleici Carsisi look for souvenirs of copper, jewelry, towels and silk blouses. You can choose among nearby Camlik, Incilipinar or Gokpinar Parks for a rest, picnic, or simply a walk through the forest in the shade of pine trees. Fresh water springs and thermal baths attract many visitors.

Hot Spring, Pamukkale

A magical, spectacular natural site, unique in the world, Pamukkale (Hiecrapolis) is a fairyland of dazzling white castles. Thermal spring waters laden with calcareous salts running off the plateau's edge have created this fantastic formation of stalactites, cataracts and basins. The hot springs have been used since Roman times for their therapeutic powers. Both the thermal center with its motels and thermal pools, as well as the ruins of the ancient city of Hierapolis, are situated on the plateau.

Another thermal center northwest of Pamukkale is Karahayit, known for its water's high iron content. Honaz Dagi National Park is 20 km east of Denizli, near the town of Honaz. Mt. Honaz is one of the most beautiful and highest peaks (2528 m) in the Aegean region, covered with a gorgeous alpine forest. The remains of ancient Colossae, a site of early Christian activity, can be seen on the northern slope.

MUGLA

The province of Mugla features the popular resort cities of Bodrum, Marmaris, Datca, Koycegiz and Fethiye. Beautiful resorts, comfortable hotels and motels, cozy guest houses, impressive ruins of past civilizations and magnificent landscapes offer holiday makers plenty of choice. Mugla, the province's capital, lies inland and is known for its traditional architecture. In the village of Ozluce, a veritable open-air museum east of Mugla, is Turolian Park, where you can find fossils that geologists claim are from five to nine million years old.

Bodrum

An impressive medieval castle built by the Knights of Rhodes guards the entrance to the dazzling blue bay of Bodrum, where the Aegean and the Mediterranean meet. This charming town attracts a diverse population of vacationers who stroll along its long, palm-lined waterfront, while elegant yachts crowd the marina.

Not far from town, you can swim in absolutely clear, tideless, warm seas. Divers, especially, will want to explore the numerous reefs, caves and majestic rock formations in waters that offer up multicolored sponges of all shapes and sizes and an immense variety of other aquatic life, including octopus.

The reputation of Bodrum's boat yards dates back to ancient times. Today, craftsmen still build traditional boats: the tirhandil with a pointed bow and stern and the broad beamed, rounded stern gulette. The latter are utilized for excursions and pleasure trips, and in the annual October Bodrum Cup Race.

Yacht Race, Bodrum

The yearly throng of visitors has encouraged small entrepreneurs to make shopping in Bodrum a delight. Leather goods of all kinds, natural sponges and the local blue glass beads are among the bargains to be found in the friendly little shops along the narrow, white walled streets. Charming boutiques offer kilims, carpets, sandals and embroidery as well as original fashions in soft cotton fabric.

Bodrum has gained the reputation as a center of the Turkish art community with its friendly, Bohemian atmosphere and many small galleries. This community has encouraged an casual day time lifestyle and a vibrant nightlife. The evenings in Bodrum are for leasurely dining one of the many seafood restaurants. Afterwards, daytime nightclubs (some with cabaret) and superb discos keep you going until dawn.

Bodrum, known in ancient times as Halicarnassus, was the birthplace of Heredotus and the site of the tomb of King Mausolus (4th century B.C.), one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. In the harbor, Bodrum Castle, or the medieval castle of St. Peter, is a fine example of 15th-century Crusader architecture. It has been converted into the Museum of Underwater Archeology, with remains dating as far back as the Bronze Age. The stunning panoramic view from nearby Goktepe, is often photographed by those who visit the second-century theater there.

The beautiful Bodrum Peninsula suits visitors interested in a understated relaxing atmosphere. Enchanting villages, with guest houses and small hotels on quiet bays, dot the peninsula. On the southern coast, Bardakci, Gumbet, Bitez, Aktur, Ortakent Yalisi, Karaincir, Bagla and Akyarlar have fine, sandy beaches (Bitez, Ortakent and Aktur are blue-flag beaches). Campers and windsurfers enjoy Gumbet, and at Bitez colorful sailboards weave skillfully among the masts of yachts in the bay. On shore you can enjoy quiet walks through the orange and tangerine groves bordering the beach. Ortakent has one of the longest stretches of sandy beach in the area and offers an ideal place for relaxing in solitude. One of the most beautiful beaches on the Bodrum peninsula is Karaincir, ideal for active days by the sea and relaxed evenings with local villagers. Finally, Akyarlar enjoys a well-deserved reputation for the fine, powdery sand of its beach.

Bodrum Museum, "Amphora Collections"

Turgutreis, Gumusluk and Yalikavak, all with excellent beaches, lie on the western side of the peninsula and are ideal for swimming, sunbathing and water sports. Gumusluk Beach is a blue-flag beach. In Turgutreis, the birthplace of a great Turkish admiral for whom it is named, you will find a monument honoring him. In the ancient port of Myndos (Gumusluk) you can easily make many friends from among the hospitable and outgoing local populace. In Yalikavak, white washed houses with cascading bougainvillaea line narrow streets. Small cafes and the occasional windmill make it particularly picturesque.

Bodrum Castle

On the north coast of the peninsula Torba, Turkbuku, Golkoy and Gundogan can be seen by road. Even better, hire a boat and crew to explore the quiet coves, citrus groves and wooded islands. Little windmills, still used to grind grain, crown the surrounding hills covered in olive trees. Torba, a modem village with holiday villas and a nice marina is located eight km north of Bodrum. Golkoy and Turkbuku are small and simple fishing villages with a handful of taverns overlooking the lovely bay.

After a boat trip to Karaada, half an hour from Bodrum, you can bathe in the grotto where warm mineral waters flowing out of the rocks are believed to enhance the complexion.

The translucent and deep waters of the Gulf of Gokova, off the southern shore of the Bodrum peninsula, vary from the darkest blue to the palest turquoise, and the coastline is thickly wooded in every hue of green. During the evening, the sea reflects the mountains silhouetted against the setting sun, while it shimmers with phosphorescence at night.

Native, Bodrum

You can take a yacht tour or hire a boat from Bodrum for a two, three or seven-day tour of the gulf.

The Gulf of Gulluk, and harbor of the same name, lie north of the Bodrum peninsula on the Aegean. The mythological Dolphin Boy is said to have been born a little farther to the north at Kiyikislacik (lassos). South of Gulluk, Varvil, ancient Bargilya, sits at the end of a deep narrow inlet surrounded by hillsides covered in olive trees.

Inland from Gulluk, is Milas, ancient Mylasa, known for its beautiful carpets a century-old tradition which continues today. The weavers rarely mind a visitor watching them at work. Plenty of old Turkish houses with carved timbers and latticed windows provide examples of the local architectural style. Gumuskesen, a memorial tomb, thought to be a small copy of the famous Halicarnassus Mausoleum, stands west of the city.

The ancients built Labranda high in the mountains as a sanctuary dedicated to Zeus. Today tourists have rediscovered this mountain retreat, escaping to its exhilarating air and breathtaking scenery.

Situated on a bay, backed by rugged pineclad mountains, Marmaris is a most attractive maritime parklands, ideal for water sports and sailing. It makes an excellent starting point for a "Blue Voyage" tour of the Aegean coastline. In May, the Marmaris Yacht Charter Show provides an opportunity to meet the yacht captains and crews. With plenty of provisions aboard you set sail in the craft of your choice and languidly explore the spectacular beauty of southern Turkey.

In Marmaris, sample typical Turkish cuisine in one of the marina restaurants and drink raki, anisette, the traditional Turkish way, over ice and diluted with water. Later stroll along the brightly lit palm-lined promenade and indulge yourself at one of the ice cream vendors. Energetic entertainment at a lively bar or dancing until dawn at a sophisticated disco can end a perfect day. There are many good buys in Marmaris's boutiques, colorlul bazaars and markets.

Gumuskesen Memorial, Milas, Mugla

You can find excellent leather and suede goods, copper jewelry and other objects carved of onyx. Turkish carpets, textiles and embroidery make good handcrafted souvenirs, and the locally produced pine-scented honey called cambali is superb.

Marmaris, Mugla

Ancient Marmaris, Physkos, was an important stage on the Anatolia- Rhodes- Egypt trade route. In the 16th century, Suleyman the Magnificent had a citadel built on a hill, the remains of which can still be seen today. Swimmers should not miss Ataturk Park, to the east of Marmaris, where a shallow beach, extending to the bay leads to safe waters. The clear blue sea is warm enough for swimming from early May until late September. Marmaris also has horseback riding and tennis centers for the sports enthusiast. This is also one of the few places in the world where you can delight in the heady aroma of the frankincense tree. Weekly ferry lines run between Marmaris and Venice during the summer season.

Near Marmaris, at Icmeler, the hazy mountains of the interior slope down to sandy beaches. Under blue skies, the clear sea presents opportunities for all types of water sports. Many find this area so irresistible that they stay longer than originally planned. There are some excellent accommodations here, in which you can prolong your experience of nature. As you drive down from the high mountains into the scenic small village of Turunc, the vista opens out onto the spectacular blue waters beyond the natural harbor. Most of the restaurants border the beach, while a few bars and restaurants farther back from the water's edge offer fresh fish and superb views.

Marmaris

Kumlubuk, a turquoise paradise, lies on the southern side of the bay. On the northern, above the water, is the ancient Rhodian city of Amos. Loryma, at the tip of the Bozburun Peninsula, where the ruins of the ancient harbor and castle remain, can only be reached by boat. Quiet, natural bays and scattered islands punctuate the northern shore of the peninsula.

Sedir Island, in the Gulf of Gokova, was the ancient Cedrai. Its old city walls, theater and temples can be visited by driving from Marmaris north to Gelibolu Bay and then crossing over by boat. This trip also offers an unforgettable panoramic view of the mountain scenery across the bay. At the head of the gulf is the village of Gokova whose houses seem to cascade down the Mt. Kiran mountainside. Restaurants built over bubbling, fresh-water streams that cascade from the highlands create an unforgettable setting. The towering pines and cooling breezes of Gokova Park are often a welcome respite from the hot sun.

The Datca Peninsula provides a natural boundary between the Gulf of Gokova in the Aegean Sea to the north, and the Gulf of Hisaronu in the Mediterranean Sea to the south. Along the 75 km from Marmaris to Datca, the road winds among trees and hills, opening onto lovely views over the blue expanse. Campers have many wonderful settings to choose from. Those who are less adventurous can stay in one of the many comfortable resort villages. The beautiful blue-flag Aktur beach is 25 km from Datca. In Datca white-washed buildings hung with bougainvillaea decorate the town. The marina is on the southern bay and swimmers prefer the northern bay. Around the marina bars, cafes and a wide selection of shops keep the tourist's interest.

Lycian Rock Tombs, Fethiye

Some shops remain open well into the evening. Relaxing over a pre-dinner drink and then a delicious meal in a friendly restaurant is a popular way to spend the evening hours. Of course, the local eateries offer both fresh fish and classic Turkish cuisine. With any remaining energy, take a stroll and find a disco to your liking until the early morning. The Kormen Harbor, 10 km north of Datca is connected to Bodrum by a daily ferry line.

Dalyan, Mugla

As you travel out of Datca either by road or by boat, you will find unspoiled flays and golden sandy beaches. Kargi is one of the most popular.

At the end of the peninsula 38 km from Datca stands the ancient Carian city of Knidos, described by Strabo as "a city that was built for the most beautiful of goddesses, Aphrodite, on the most beautiful of peninsulas." Famous as a center of art and culture in the fourth century B.C. the city had two harbors: one on the Aegean and the other on the Mediterranean. The remains of a circular temple dedicated to the goddess of love overlook the two harbors. The arcaded walkway was built of white marble in heart- shaped columns. Praxiteles' legendary statue of Aphrodite, one of the most beautiful sculptures of antiquity, once graced this temple.

Knidos, Datca - Mugla

The town of Koycegiz lies at the northern end of the lake by the same name and is joined to the Mediterranean by a natural channel. This unique environment is being preserved as a nature and wildlife sanctuary. A road shaded with aromatic frankincense trees leads to the tiny village of Dalyan on the inland waterway. The maze of channels is easily explored by boat as you immerse yourself in this tranquil dream world. The restaurants which line the waterways specialize in delicious fresh fish.

Magnificent tombs were carved into the rock high on the cliff face, at a bend in the river, above the fascinating ancient harbor city of Caunos. The Dalyan Delta, with the long, golden, sandy lztuzu beach at its mouth, is a nature conservation area and a refuge for sea turtles (Caretta caretta) and blue crabs.

Oludeniz, Fethiye

At Ekincik, a delightful yacht mooring, you can enjoy the breathtaking beauty of this area. Only a half hour's drive from Dalaman Airport, Sarigerme has wonderful sandy beaches, and a pleasant resort village discreetly situated in a pine forest. The Dalaman River is the great for rafting, the best time being between May and October.

The road to Fethiye winds up and down hills through a heavily forested region that offers occasional glimpses of the sea and an islet or two basking in total seclusion. The Gulf of Gocek and its friendly marina is one of the best sailing spots on the Mediterranean. Dotted with islands and sculpted by many coves, its land and seascapes are irresistible. The ruins of Arymaxa, an ancient city at the southern tip of the gulf, lie at the edge of the azure water. Opposite, on Tersane Island, stand Byzantine ruins, including those of the ancient shipyards.

The popular resort, Fethiye 135 km southeast of Marmaris boasts an important marina at the head of a beautiful bay strewn with islands. A hill crowned by the ruins of the crusader fortress built by the Knights of Rhodes overlooks the little port. Above the town, (called Telmessos in antiquity), numerous Lycian rock tombs, reproducing the facade's of ancient buildings, were cut into the cliff face. The Tomb of Amyntas, which probably dates from the fourth century B.C., is the most remarkable.

Harpy and Semerdam Monuments, Xanthos, Antalya

Swimmers head for the popular Calis Beach, four km west of town, or to Sovalye Island, opposite the harbor, which blazes with flowers in the spring.

The road to Belcegiz Bay takes you through the mountains, where cozy guest houses cater to those seeking mountain scenery. Ocakkoy is a mountain village must. Stay in one of the lovely guest houses and enjoy the numerous hiking possibilities. Hisaronu, also in the mountains, has very nice hotels. Kayakoy, four km from Hisaronu, is a picturesque ghost town of old houses and churches. Explore the bay and the beautiful Blue Lagoon (Oludeniz) where the calm, crystal clear water is ideal for swimming and other water sports. The Blue Lagoon is one of the best places in the world to do absolutely nothing but soak up the sun amid stunning natural surroundings. From Mt. Baba (1,969 m), you can paraglide into the Blue Lagoon. For those seeking accommodations, Belcegiz beach is highly recommended. Intoxicating scenery surrounds the beach and shady park at Kidirak. On Gemiler Island (St. Nicholas Island), Byzantine ruins are tucked amid the pines. South of Kidirak beach, Koturumsu Bay is reachable only by boat. Beyond the idyllic beach, a forest, waterfalls and a valley filled with hundreds of varieties of butterflies await the intrepid explorer. High in the mountains above Fethiye a rushing torrent cuts a narrow gorge through the mountains, creating Saklikent (Hidden City) Canyon 44 km south of Fethiye. A cool refuge on hot summer days, Saklikent is a favorite picnic spot, with rustic restaurants serving delectable fresh trout. Yakakoy (Tlos) 36 km south of Fethiye, is the oldest city in the Lycian region and the home of the Lycian Hero Bellerophon. Visitors can see the remains of a castle, the agora, the necropolis, the theatre, Roman baths and a good view of Esen Valley. Two km east is Tlos Park, a terrific picnic spot. Pinara, 49 km south of Fethiye, is another ancient mountain city,popular for hikers who can see the remains of a theatre, an agora, a rock tomb, and baths.

About 65 km southeast Fethiye, near Kinik, are the ruins of Xanthos, an important Lycian capital in a splendid natural setting. Nearby Letoon was formerly an important religious cult center where temples dedicated to Leto, Artemis and Apollo stood in ancient times.