FROM ERZINCAN TO DOGUBAYAZIT

Panoramic View, Kemaliye

The national highway, the great trans-Anatolian axis road, is the most direct route between Ankara and the Iranian border passing through Sivas, Erzincan, Erzurum, Agri and Dogubayazit. Erzincan, the principal city of the province, lies 688 km east of Ankara on a fertile plain. The highly decorated and hand-fashioned copper vessels and wares of Erzincan reflect the long tradition of the area's fame in metalwork. Bolkar, a ski slope 40 kilometers to the west, provides facilities for winter sports enthusiasts. Many of the magnificent bronze objects in Ankara's Museum of Anatolian Civilizations were found nearby at the Urartian site of Altintepe, east of Erzincan. At Tercan, the round 12th century, mausoleum of Mama Hatun with its beautifully carved stone portal is worth a detour off the main road. Girvelik, in the same southeasterly direction, provides bucolic picnic spots where you can eat a packed lunch and relax to the sound of water tumbling over rocks. Kemaliye, situated on the banks of the Firat River is one of the most beautiful and green areas in the region. It is known for its lovely countryside and scenic views; especially popular with trekkers. Kemaliye is also known for its traditional homes with their artistic detail. Karanlik Bogaz near Kemaliye is one of the best places for photo-safaris, canoeing and rafting.

Detail of wood home, Kemaliye

Erzurum, 193 km east of Erzincan and the largest city in eastern Anatolia, sprawls on a high plateau at an altitude of 1,950 m. As you enter the city, the large Aziziye monument commemorating the Turkish-Russian War will catch your eye.

Girvelik Waterfalls, Erzincan

Although the collection in the archaeological museum reveals much of the city's history and ancient origins, it is Erzurum's architecture which is in fact the city's best museum. The city walls and fortress are reminiscent of the period of Byzantine rule. And particularly important are the remaining Seljuk buildings, brilliant examples of a fascinating aesthetic. The Ulu Mosque, built in 1179, has an unusual form with seven wide naves. The Qifte Minareli Medrese, or theological college, built by the Seljuk Sultan Alaeddin Keykubat in 1253, astonishes with elaborate stone carvings on its portal and its majestic double minarets. Behind the Cifte Minareli Medrese stands the 09 Kumbetler, a group of three tombs, the most notable; that of Emir Saltuk. The 13th century Hatunlye Turbesi, or mausoleum, was built for Sultan Alaeddin Keykubat's daughter. The beautiful portal and richly tiled minaret of the 13th century,Yakutiye Medrese reveals another facet of Seljuk architecture. You can also see Ottoman buildings in Erzurum; the great architect Sinan left his mark on the city with the Lala Mustafa Pasa Mosque.

Cifte Minareli Medrese, Erzurum

While wandering around the Erzurum, notice the local black stone (Erzurum, Oltu Tasi), which is used in jewelry. The shops on the upper floor of the Tashan (Rustem Pasa Caravanserai) offer the best selections of merchandise.

A road through splendid mountain scenery leads to the winter sports resort of Palandoken, only six kms from Erzurum. This center has hotels, the longest ski run and the best snow quality in Turkey, and is a favorite haunt of expert skiers. The glassy Tortum Lake, 120 km from Erzurum towards Artvin and the Black Sea, may be the most tranquil sight in all of Turkey. Be sure to see the Tortum Waterfalls at the north end of the lake, plunging from a height of 47 ms.

Yakutiye Medrese, Erzurum

Kars, standing at an altitude of 1,750 ms, has played an important role in Turkish history and was at the center of the Turkish-Russian War. The Russian legacy can still be seen in much of the town's architecture. The lower city unfolds at the foot of an impressive 12th century Seljuk fortress.

Palandoken, Erzurum Ani ruins, Kars

Nearby, the Havariler Museum (the 10th century Church of the Apostles) reveals a curious mixture of architectural influences. Bas-reliefs representing the 12 apostles, in rather stiff and awkward poses, ring the exterior drum of the dome. The Archaeological Museum houses beautiful wood carvings, an excellent collection of coins found in the surrounding region, as well as many ethnographic items relating to eastern Turkey.

Kars is particularly known for its distinctive kilims and carpets, and it retains a strong heritage of folk dancing. Visitors always seem to enjoy this traditional entertainment. On the mountain pastures, villagers produce excellent Kasar cheese and delicious honey.

Seytan Castle

About 42 km east of the city on the ancient Silk Road, the medieval city of Ani (Ocakli) lies mostly in ruins. Impressive fortified walls still encircle the ruins of numerous churches, mosques and caravanserais. Sarikamis (53 km southwest of Kars) is a ski center with resort hotels set in a scenic pine forest. The Kur river divides Ardahan and separates the ancient part on one side and the new city on the other. A 16th century castle built by Sultan Selim the Grim, one of the most stately citadels in Turkey with 14 towers and a span of 745 meters, stands in the old part of the city. To the north of Ardahan via Posof lies the Turkgozu border gate which is now open for travel through the Republic of Georgia.

Ishak Pasa

Cildir takes its name from the nearby lake which lies at an altitude of 1,965 meters. The scenic area around the lake provides a habitat for a fascinating variety of birds. In the lake, the manmade Akcakale Island was reputedly constructed with the labor of thousands; a temple with Urartian inscriptions remains. Seytan (Devil's) Castle is near Cildir. The city of Igdir stands on a large, fertile plain where fruit and, unusual for this geographical region, cotton grow. The Bible relates that when the flood waters receded, Noah and his family descended from Mount Agri (Ararat) toward the fertile Igdir plain. From here, their progeny settled to the south and west along the Firat (Euphrates) and Dicle (Tigris) Rivers, establishing the second generation of mankind. From this plain, you have the best view of Mount Agri. Monuments to visit near the city include Urartian rock monuments, a 13th century Seljuk caravanserai and the Karakale (Black Castle). In Karakoyun Village, on the road between Igdir and Aralik, you should stop at the impressive 15th century cemeteries with Karakoyun (ram and ewe) monumental tombstones.

Ishak Pasa Palaca

Agri, a provincial capital on a 1,650 m high plateau, takes its name from the mountain which looms over it. The pleasant Balik (Fish) Lake to the northeast, not surprisingly, has plenty of fish restaurants serving local delicacies. Thermal springs bubble up all over the area. For those who want a hardy outdoor event, visit the Bubi Ski Center, 20 km southwest of Agri, for a few days of snow sport.

Mount Ararat (Agri)

Do not miss the spectacular site of the Ishak Pasa a Palace, only 6 km from Dogubayazit. Ishak Pasa, Ottoman governor of the province, constructed the palace in the 17th century with a mixture of architectural styles. Nearby you can see a bas-relief of an Urartian king, and a rock tomb from the ninth century B.C Near Dogubayazit, Turkey's most scenic natural monument, Mount Agri rises to a height of 5,137 m. To see the place where it is believed that Noah's Ark came aground, go to Uzengili village, 25 km east of Dogubayazit. Be sure to try the local dessert, asure (Noah's Pudding), believed to have first been made by Noah's wife from the last bits of food on the ark.