THE EASTERN BLACK SEA COAST

Sinop (192 km northeast of Kastamonu) is one of the most beautiful natural harbors of the Black Sea, where the first evidence of civilization dates from 4500 B.C. It was founded as a major colony in the seventh century B.C. by Miletian colonists and was the birthplace of the third century B.C. philosopher, Diogenes the Cynic. The town's citadel and the foundations of a temple dedicated to the god Serapis, who was supposedly born in Sinop, date from that period. Serapis was worshipped in the Roman world as far away as Egypt. After the Miletians, subsequent rulers included the Phrygians, Persians, Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks, and beginning in 146, the Ottomans. The Archeology Museum's collection includes several beautiful golden icons, and the 18th-century Aslan Torunlar Mansion Museum displays ethnographical artifacts. Other important monuments include the 13th-century Alaeddin Mosque and the Alaiye Medrese. Excellent seafood restaurants along the charming fishermen's wharf serve tasty meals, while brightly colored boats bobbing in the water complete the picturesque panorama. Sinop is also known for its traditional nautical wooden carvings. Seaside hotels and STET villages provide accommodations in all price ranges. Some 35 km to the southwest, high in the mountains, lie the yaylas (mountain plateaus) of Guzfindik and Bozarmut. At an elevation of 1,350 m, these green pastures with their summer inhabitants offer a glimpse into a traditional way of life.

Gerze is situated on a peninsula 40 km east along the coast and is surrounded by parks and beaches. After Akkum beach you can see Turkey's only fjord, the Hamsaros. Farther along the coastal road, 44 km east of Gerze, you arrive at Yakakent, a fishing village with clean, sandy beaches. Camgolu, a large forest which slopes to the sea, has camping sites, guest facilities and restaurants.

Turning inland, the road takes you to Bafra (30 km east of Yakakent) a town famous for its tobacco, caviar and thermal springs. Its 13th-century hamam and 15th- century mosque-medrese complex are sights worth seeing. Ikiztepe, 7 km northeast of Bafra is an archeological site including over 600 graves from the early Bronze Age (2300-2100 B.C.) that uncovers much of Black Sea regional history. The site shows evidence of continual habitation from around 4000 B.C. until the time of the Hittites in 1700 B.C. The artifacts, including jewelry, which is especially impressive, can be seen in the Samsun museum. The Kizilirmak River delta area has also been inhabited since ancient times. The Paflagonia graves date from 700 B.C. And the castle is pessed at 1000 B.C. The Bafra Kizilirmak Delta Marsh provides refuge to over 300 species if birds with a total of 100,000 birds wintering there.

Samsun (418 km northeast of Ankara and 168 km southeast of Sinop) is a modern industrial city that has served as a major port for centuries. Products from all over the region are exported from this city, which annually hosts the Samsun Trade and Industrial Fair. Samsun found itself at the center of the Turkish War of Independence on May 19, 1919, when Ataturk landed here to organize the defense of Anatolia. The Ataturk Museum houses many objects and documents relating to the war. An equestrian statue honoring the founder of the republic stands in a prominent place in the city park. The 14th-century Pazar Mosque and the 19th-century Buyuk Mosque reflect two different Turkish architectural styles and are interesting to compare.

The Archeology Museum not only displays the finds from Ikiztepe but also artifacts from Dandartepe and Amisos, as Samsun was known in ancient times. Amisos, excavated in 1955, contained a treasury that was found in a square grave with five rooms carved out of conglomerate rock. Three contained skeletons; two were empty. Pottery, glass, metal, and marble artifacts were dated in the 4th century B.C. The golden jewelry was dated at 100 B.C. Other sites which have been excavated include Akalan, Tekkekoy, and Kaledorugu. About 69 other sites remain unexcavated.

Carsamba is the location of the beautiful wooden Gokceli Mosque, built in 1176 without using any metal nails.

Terme is ancient Themiskyna, founded in 1200 B.C. by Amazon warrior women. It has lovely beaches and lakes.

The charming little port of Unye (93 km east of Samsun) is one of the nicest holiday towns on the eastern Black Sea and justly boasts of its excellent beaches and camping facilities. Do not miss the extraordinary 18th-century town hall. Within easy reach of Unye is the beautiful Camlik Beach.

After Fatsa (22 km east of Unye), another resort town on the road to Ordu, the ruins of the Byzantine Jason Church, now a museum, stand on the Camburnu promontory. Legend has it that the Argonauts landed here during their quest for the Golden Fleece. Seafood restaurants; serving the finest tea found in the region dot the 50 km of scenic road to Ordu. Sea snails, a regional speciality, are particularly delicious at Yalikoy.

Returning from the Babylonian campaign, the survivors of "Xenophon's Ten Thousand" left Anatolia from Ordu in their retreat to the west. Evidence of habitation in Ordu dates to as early as 3000 B.C. Today, Ordu is a beautiful port situated at the foot of a forested hill. In the Pasaoglu Konak (mansion), now the Ethnographical Museum, see how a rich and influential 19th-century family lived. Hazelnut production centers around Ordu and every September the town hosts the Golden Hazelnut Festival. Be sure to sample the delicious chocolate nut candy. An 18th-century church two km from town and the pretty beach of Guzelyali are worth visiting. The yayla (plateau) of Cambasi offering beautiful moun tain views lies 58 km further south, at an altitude of 1,250 m. The plateau of Keyfalan, at 2,000 m, is another popular summer destination for local residents.

The ruins of the Giresun Fortress offer a wonderful panorama of Giresun, 52 km east of Ordu. The fortress is located on the peninsula which divides the city in two. It is claimed that there is a cave under the castle facing the sea which was used as a church and shelter for as many as 1500 people. It was from Giresun, ancient Cerasos, that the Roman general Lucullus exported the first cherry trees to Europe. An 18th-century church (now a museum) makes a short visit worthwhile. Giresun Island, the only inhabitable island in the eastern Black Sea, is said to have once belonged to the Amazons. A ruined temple supports this theory. Other historical remains include two large wine barrels, castle walls, and a watchtower. The island was called Aretia, Aretias, or Areos. To get off the beaten track, take an excursion to the high mountain plateaus of Bektas or Kumbet. It is possible to enjoy walking, hiking, or bicycling in clean mountain air amidst lush green surroundings.

Between Giresun and Trabzon are the quaint coastal towns of Kesap, Tirebolu, Gorele, Vakfikebir and Akcaabat squeezed between wooded, mountains and the Black Sea waters. Stop at Gorele for delicious, submarine-shaped meat and cheese pide, at Vakfikebir for the best butter, and at Akcaabat to sample the best kofte (meat rolls).

Trabzon, a provincial capital 346 km east of Samsun, has a long history. The earliest evidence of civilization date to 7000 B.C. In 1200 B.C., warriors from Trabzon reportedly participated in the Trojan war. The area has been ruled by Assyrians, Miletians, Persians, Romans, Goths, Comnenes, and Ottomans. The Miletian colonists came in the 7th century B.C., and Alexander the Great in 334 B.C. The Romans engaged in an extensive building program from 110 to 118 A.D. The Goths conquered the area in 258. The jewel of Trabzon's monuments is the restored 13th- century Byzantine church, used for centuries as a mosque and now as the Ayasofya Museum. Splendid frescoes, some of the finest examples of Byzantine painting, cover all the interior church walls. It was built between 1250 and 1260 during the time of Manuel 1, one of the Comnene kings in Trabzon. Several other churches were converted to mosques, two becoming the Fatih Mosque and the Yeni Cuma Mosque. The Ottoman Gulbahar Hatun Mosque, a typical provincial style building, is set in a lovely tea garden. Wooden houses characterize the old quarter nestled in the ancient fortifications, which still retain the spirit of a medieval town. The house in which Ataturk stayed has been made into a museum.

On the hills above Trabzon, Boztepe Park offers a beautiful view of the city and coastline. On the western slopes of Boztepe Hill stands the Irene Tower, built by Empress Irene of Trabzon in 1340. Just east of the city, the village of Surmene has an impressive 19th-century mansion known as the Kastel. Near Trabzon, south of Akcaabat, the lovely highland meadows of Karadag, Hidirnebi and Erikbeli are ideal for hiking and picnics. Nearby, the Zahardag resort has been opened. The road inland from Trabzon winds through spectacular mountain landscape before reaching the Zigana Tunnel, the longest in Turkey. Nearby Hamsikoy is a charming mountain village, that has gained a national reputation for its excellent cuisine (including an excellent rice pudding), and is also convenient to the Zigana Ski Center. The beautiful meadows and highland plateaus of Gurgenagac Yaylasi, Kirazli Yaylasi and Solma Yaylasi are ideal sites for outdoor activities. The traditional Kadirga Festival celebrates the annual summer migration to the high mountain pastures.

Altindere National Park in Macka County provides a magnificent setting for the 14th- century Sumela (Virgin Mary) Monastery, perched high on a cliff face 270 m above a deep gorge.

Surrounded by the ruins of the monks' quarters, is a church covered inside and out with brilliant frescoes. Southeast of Trabzon is Lake Uzungol, a lovely alpine lake surrounded by mountains and meadows, excellent for camping, hiking and fishing. The restaurants here also make it the best place for eating river trout. Gumushane (88 km east of Trabzon), on the ancient trade route between Trabzon and Iran was once of considerable importance. Many elegant buildings still remain. Set amid fruit groves and wild roses, the town is a natural stopping point between Trabzon and Erzurum. Take the opportunity to try the local rosehip, syrup and marmalade.

Bayburt (77 km from Gumushane), is situated on both banks of the Coruh River and lies on what was once known as the Silk Road. Marco Polo and the inveterate Turkish traveler Evliya Celebi both passed through this city. The remains of a Byzantine castle, as well as major mosques, Turkish baths and fascinating carved tombstones are among the significant attractionss. The castle survived many civilizations. It was controlled at various times by Romans, Byzantines, and Arabs before being captured by the Turks. Bayburt Castle, one of the most well preserved in Anatolia, is a particularly beautiful examples of Seljuk architecture. Two other important monuments in Bayburt are Ulu Mosque (18th-century) and the Clock Tower in the city center which dates from the republican period. Also worth seeing are the twin mausoleums of Sehit Osman and his sister, which are situated on the hillsides at the southern entrance to the city. Osman Park on the Coruh River has wonderful scenery and is a lovely place to relax.

Rize (75 km east of Trabzon) is built on a mountain slope covered with tea bushes that look like puffy green pillows. Be sure to see this typical Black Sea city's 16th-century Islam Pasa Mosque and the remains of a Genoese castle. From Ziraat Park you can take in a splendid panorama of the whole area. A lightweight summer cloth of good quality and printed with colorful patterns comes from the Rize area. During the Summer Tea Festival you can purchase the best blend of Black Sea tea. Mehmet Mataraci Mansion is now an Ataturk Museum that displays his personal belongings as well as ethnographical artifacts from the region.

Turning inland after Ardesen off the road going east from Rize, you come to the beautiful little town of Camlihemsin straddling a rushing stream. Nearby is the Firtina Vadisi (Valley of Storms) ideal for canoeing, and the beautiful Zil Castle (Kale-i Zir), and an old stone bridge. After walking around Ayder's rolling meadows, you can relax in one of the many hot springs. For those who like mountain climbing, this is the best starting point for scaling the Kackar Mountains. This emerald range is one of the best and the most challenging for climbers in Turkey.

The whole of the Kackar Range constitutes the beautiful Kackar Daglari National Park. In the mountains south of Rize, Anzer village offers the world- famous and nutritious Anzer honey and is a nice area for hiking and for its botany. Ikizdere Canyon, between Anzer and Ikizdere Plateaus, is a great spot for hang- gliding. At the same time you get a bird's- eye view of the area. Near Rize, the towns of Cayeli, Pazar, Ardesen, Of and Findikli all enjoy a subtropical climate, lush green settings and boast traditional chalets. The Camburnu coast is covered with golden pine trees where many species of migrating birds stop, and it is a lovely area for resting and picture taking.

Harvesting Tea in Rize

Hopa, an attractive town at the foot of a forested mountain, is the last port before the Turkish-Georgian border. The international boundary actually divides the village of Sarp. The wonderful alpine lake of Karagol, with various pine trees, as well as other flora and fauna is 27 km northeast of the town of Borcka on the way to Artvin. The road to Artvin traverses the Cankurtaran mountain pass, where verdant the landscape changes to barren rocks. Hatilla Valley National Park, about 25 km in length, is 10 km from Artvin, between the confluence of the Coruh River and the Hatiila stream in the east, and Mt. Nathali (2,923 m) in the west. Canyons with sheer cliffs and vertical drops are a hallmark of the park. Both Mediterranean and Black Sea flora flourish together in the park along with bears, deer, wolves, foxes and eagles. Special houses on top of wooden stilts are home to the park bees who produce the famous regional honey.

Elevit - Rize and Kackar Mountains, Rize

A winding drive midway up a mountainside takes you to Artvin, the capital of the province. At the foot of the escarpment, a ruined 16th-century castle crowns a rocky outcrop. Artvin is a charming city with beautiful old Turkish houses, typical of the region. The area's mild climate makes summer visits delightfully refreshing and every June, crowds of tourists, as well as brightly-clad locals, throng to the Kafkasor festival, where the spectacle of fighting bulls highlights the celebration. The adventurous might like to attempt white water rafting on the wild Coruh River.

During the Middle Ages, the Artvin area came under Georgian sovereignty, which makes it conducive for touring remains of the Georgian past. Its wonderfully scenic roads lead to the ruined churches and settlements that stand as a legacy of this period. The best-preserved of these are at Barhal and Ishan, in the majestic Kackar Mountains. Barhal also offers some of the best country horseback riding. Several other churches in Bagbasi and Camliyamac are just off the road to Erzurum, passing by the Tortum Waterfalls and the pristine Tortum Lake. Other Georgian churches and settlements near Yusufeli are Dortkilise, Koprugoren, and Tekkale. Yusufeli itself boasts wonderful possibilities for nature lovers and hiking at 4000 m. East of Artvin is the former Georgian capital Ardanuc, with its famous castle, which overlooks the longest canyon in the region.

Savsat is 55 km east of Artvin. It is an alpine village surrounded by meadows of wild flowers and butterflies, rushing streams and quaint chalets. The local women's organization has established a training center for weaving in an attempt to keep the indigenous carpet and kilim traditions alive. Karagol-Sahara National Park, 17 km from Savsat on the way to Ardahan, has one of the most beautiful Karagol alpine lakes as well as the widely- known Sahara Plateau. The lake is 45 km northeast of Savsat via Velikoy Village, another typical authentic village. The area around the lake is covered with a variety of pine trees and also has picnic facilities. Wildlife, including bears, is plentiful. The Sahara plateau itself is also covered with beautiful mineral and fresh springs. On the plateau is Kocabey Kislagi Village where you can see traditional wooden houses occupied by friendly residents. Another important plateau and popular summer residence in the region is Bilbilan, whose people are also exceptionally welcoming and helpful. Generally, in all the national parks you can see wonderful examples of birds and butterflies.